+ 0 - 0 | § ¶A bird s eye view of Tehran

Iranians are not Arabs. Farsi writing is similar to Arabic but has dots and was indeed brought into the country by Arabs during the expansion of Islam. Muslims of Iran are Shiites, and believe in the 12 Imams that followed Mahomet. The Imams are hereditary successors to Mohammed, starting with Imam Ali, and therefore have the power to interpret the Koran and to implement Islamic law. The Sunnites on the other hand believe the Califs have the power to follow Mahomet, starting with Abu Bakr, Mahomet’s closest companion.

We would not have spent so much time here in Tehran, had we been ordinary tourists in search of the refined Persian culture for Tehran isnot a very attractive city.

Tehran is a large unattractive city (14 million), and it looks like we are stuck again! Due to the lack of tourist spots, and bars and clubs, we have been very active and spent most of our time meeting people.

+ 0 - 0 | § ¶Through the black hole from Ankara to Teheran

We were up with no problem that morning as we were to leave Ankara. The train was leaving at 7.40 and like all international transport, we had to be there two hours in advance. We hadn’t slept much that night so when we were at last allowed to put the bikes in the luggage wagon and to find our compartment, we began to feel the doziness that a 3 day and 2 night train journey can create. I managed to keep my eyes open enough time to see the outskirts of Anakara as the train slowly took us out. The solar panelled houses on the hills presenting last night’s snow as a sacrifice to the sun.

We woke around 5pm, some 500 or so kms from Ankara, and from this moment onwards, we floated along the journey between the state of sleep and consciousness. In the winter season few people travel between Turkey and Iran, so the train was virtually empty. Activities were limited to reading, sleeping or going to the toilet, the major interruption of the swing of things would be to walk to the restaurant wagon, and speak to the chef about how guilty I feel.

+ 1 - 0 | § ¶From Eskisehir to Ankara: Old to New or New to Old?

As Peter and I entered into Eskisehir, we could not help but to feel yet another new and distinct Turkish charm around us.

Istanbul and Bursa had both enticed us with their bazaars, their vibrant lifestyles, their delicious food… yet once again, we knew as we entered Eskisehir that we were a step closer to the East, and a step further from the West.

Bekir, our new Turkish guide, accompanied by his friends and family, helped us find a cheap hotel (no shower), and soon enough we all went to the local hamam together.